The Design Diary: Customer Board

In the previous post I completed a toile of a skirt, the next step is to work with the skirt on the stand and in Photoshop.

The reason I do this is to further the design development. The first toile is never the finished garment, simply because you are going to want to make changes, whether they are big or small.

Again I use Photoshop to edit the images, here I outlined that I could change the skirt to a long back and short front style. I could also widen the skirt and make it more full using tulle.

The next thing I done was created a few new designs using samples from the previous post, these were the square drapes made from satin. I made several designs for both the top and the skirt.

I really like the designs I created, the skirt design above with all the layered drapes is definitely my favourite! I quickly moved on to new samples, without furthering any of the designs above.

New Samples

sample

In the images above you can see the process I followed to create the following samples. This process is also used to make circle skirts, which is actually what pushed me to create these samples!

IMG_9285

I created several styles using paper first! Using paper to test a sample is a very handy and penny saving trick, this way you can test if the sample is worth cutting out in fabric!

IMG_9279

Above are the paper samples I created, all of the samples turned out perfect, so I began to test them in the calico fabric

IMG_9300

The first sample is a simple square, these samples are small and will be suited for working on the small mannequin.

IMG_9260

On the mannequin the sample looks interesting and is definitely worth developing further.

IMG_9309

The next sample was a square with the corners cut off.

On the mannequin I tested this sample out on the top half of the body instead of the bottom. I really do like this sample, but I also feel as if I have seen it before.

IMG_9304

The next sample is a rectangle shape with a smaller circle cut out, this will allow for better frills.

IMG_9244

This sample worked out even better than the previous ones. I would like to see this with a bit more structure!

IMG_9306

To make the structured sample, I ironed a fabric stiffener to the back of some calico. I cut out the rectangle shape with the small center, the same as the previous sample.

IMG_9253

I was actually a little disappointed with the structured sample. I was expecting it to look more interesting.

IMG_9295

Next I decided to test out the square sample in a light fabric and a heavy fabric. The sample above is made from a light chiffon.

IMG_9272

Using a light fabric creates a really nice drape! I think this design would look really good if it had more layers using different lengths.

IMG_9299

This sample was made from a double backed satin, which is pretty thick.

IMG_9263

This sample is very interesting! I personally love structure when it comes to design, especially structured skirts, like that designed by Zac Posen! I’m unsure if I want to have this kind of structure for this collection, but I will definitely refer back to it for later collections.

Design Development

IMG_9318IMG_9310

After working with the small samples I decided to do a few sketches based on them. I explored different lengths, layers and bodices.

IMG_9324

Choosing the skirt design I liked the most I drew up a quick line up for the first dress. I paired the skirts with my favourite tops I have designed so far. Still unsure about which I like the most I moved on to working on the larger mannequin.

Stand Work

IMG_9345

The first sample I made for the larger scale mannequin was the square shape. I was disappointed with how boring it actually looked on the large mannequin. Under the sample is the skirt toile I made in the last post.

 

The next sample I made was the rectangle shape. This shape definitely looks a lot better than the square! I placed it over the skirt so the long part of the sample was placed at the front and back, while the short ends are on the sides. This design definitely has a lot of potential!

Using the same sample, I simply turned it around so the short ends are at the front and back, and the long ends are at the sides. Again this design has great potential and could be developed further.

I moved on to remove the skirt from underneath the sample. It has lost some volume, but still looks interesting. I think if this sample was to be layered it would look really nice!

IMG_9348

I tried to layer the rectangle sample and the square sample together but it didn’t turn out like I expected. The square sample is too flat for it to create a nice drape. I would need to cut out more of the rectangle shapes in different sizes.

I also explored some design ideas for the bodice, I done this using the smaller version of the samples. In the images above you can see both the rectangle samples, stiffened and unstiffened.

I also tried the different weighted samples. To be honest I didn’t like either of them on the bodice. It just reminded me of a clowns collar!

The Customer Board

CustomerBoard

The final thing I done this week was research for my customer board! A customer board is very important in the design process, and realistically should have been done in the very beginning. I completely forgot because I was too excited to start designing!

The customer board is all about the person you wish to aim your collection at. My collection is evening wear, for occasions such as weddings, cocktail parties and formal events. My customer would be a working woman, who loves her fashion, even at work she still likes to add her own touch to the boring work suit!

She lives in the city and commutes to work instead of driving, she is a very hard worker, but also likes to let her hair down and have fun. Most importantly she loves fashion and is very open to new trends and styles!

Final Notes

Now that I have found some designs that I really like, I will start to design ideas on paper, then I will start to toile them.

I will be taking a week off from The Design Diary as I have a wedding and unfortunately I wont have time to do a lot of work.

I hope you are enjoying The Design Diary so far, and trust me its only going to get better, especially when we get all the fabric!!

Thank you for reading!

Love Tanya

xxx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Advertisements

The Design Diary: Frills Frills Frills

Picking up from my last post, I started working on the frill samples which I drew up in my notebook.

IMG_0239

These samples were quite easy to make, I simply drew up the patterns and then cut them out of the linen fabric. I started using brown paper to do my sample patterns as I only have a limited amount of spot and cross paper, as I still have to order a new roll.

IMG_0266

I cut out small and large sizes of each frill sample, having different sizes can actually give you different effects, the weights can be different, creating different drapes.

As soon as they were all cut out, I went and started working on the mannequin, straight away I loved the ideas I was getting. I find working on the mannequin sometimes doesn’t work for me, but when I am in the right mind, it can work out amazingly and that is what happened for me this time!

Stand Work

IMG_0277

IMG_0280

When I am working on the mannequin I tend to go straight to the neckline and the armholes! This is different for everyone, everyone has an area they go straight to without even knowing it, its only when someone points it out that you realise it πŸ˜‚

For the sample above I used 2 spiral samples, this worked quite nicely, and could look very interesting in a sheer fabric!

IMG_0298

IMG_0301

For the above sample I used 4 small square samples and pinned them to the shoulder seam. This was one of my favourite samples, I love the folded drape. I will further this sample later!

IMG_0316

IMG_0311

This sample is my favourite of all, I used all the small squares and 1 large square. This idea is definitely working for me, I will develop it further through some drawings.

Taking the shapes I liked the most, I went and cut them out from different fabrics, from satin to chiffon. I wanted to test different weights to see did the shape/structure/drape change!

IMG_0626

This sample is a heavy satin, it drapes nicely and the weight of the fabric works as an advantage!

IMG_0585

This sample is 100% cotton which I folded and ironed flat. I actually like this sample, especially if I was to layer the cotton. I do feel like it has lost something by simply being flat!

IMG_0612

This sample is definitely a strong contender! I layered blue and black chiffon to create this awesome effect! I want to sample this further by layering even more!

Sketches

IMG_0719

The first round of sketches I done where a follow on of the gathered sample from my previous post.

I chose the draped sleeve idea and tried to develop it further. I don’t like any of the ideas I drew, so for now I won’t be developing it any further.

IMG_0702

The next set were again developed from the same sample in my previous post. I loved the gathered drape as a statement piece to be added to a simple garment. I started looking at it in a much larger scale and even adding more than 1 to the garment.

I’m quite interested in the 2nd sketch, which is a larger version of the sample, attached to a simple draped dress.

IMG_0711

These sketches are based on my most recent samples! I feel so inspired when I see these sketches and samples! I feel this idea is going to be a huge part of the collection, but it definitely needs to be furthered more! I feel excited about experimenting with these samples and I can’t wait to see what I come up with! 🀞

yes

Here is my second line up, I picked my favourite designs out of my most recent and put them together. Again this just makes it easier for me to look back and decide which to develop and which to scrape!

Which one do you like?

Skirt Toile

Going back to my first line up, I decided to continue to toile my chosen garment, which is highlighted below.

IMG_9627

I have already made the top and I fixed the size of the sleeves, they were too big and they wouldn’t fit in the arm holes! To fix the problem I simply reduced the back seam by 1cm and now the sleeves fit perfectly!

IMG_06516-2

I didn’t take any picture of the pattern drafting for the skirt, mainly because I was so indulged in it I completely forgot I was supposed to be photographing everything πŸ˜‚

I will photograph the pattern drafting for the final garment.

IMG_0728-2

IMG_0732-2

IMG_0739-2

I shortened the skirt so it comes to the middle of the shin instead of the ankle. The skirt isn’t as wide as depicted in the sketch.

A netted under skirt could be added to give more volume, or I could use a heavier fabric and add more width to the skirt.

For part 8, you will see me work a lot with this sample outfit, moving toward a final first garment!

I will also continue to work on the drape samples and the frills!

Don’t forget to follow me on Instagram: this_is_tanya_ and Snapchat: velvetvogue to see some behind the scenes of my collection!

Thank you for reading!

Love Tanya

xxx

 

The Design Diary: First Toile

The past 2 weeks have been slow on the collection front. I adopted a rescue pup 2 weeks ago and I have been spending a lot of time with him, to insure he settles in. I managed to get a few things done this week so here is what I accomplished!

First Fabric Samples

The fabric samples I ordered from Top Fabrics arrived sometime last week. I ordered 6 swatches, these included a stretch flesh coloured mesh, Silk and Satin.

IMG_0213

I was honestly disappointed with the Satin fabrics, they weren’t as heavy as I expected and the texture wasn’t what I thought it would be.

IMG_0220

The Silk fabrics were very nice, in texture and colour, but I felt they were just a little too light for the garments I have in mind. This collection is aimed at Autumn/Winter, so a heavy fabric would be required.

The mesh fabric was perfect! It is the perfect tone and stretch, as well as having a soft texture!

IMG_0219

If I was to pick any of the fabrics it would be the ones shown below, they are all silk and the mesh.

I will continue to look for the perfect fabric, because I don’t want to settle until I have the exact ones I want!

IMG_0225

I visited another website called Truro Fabrics, they are also based in the UK. I have ordered fabric swatches from them in the past and they were really good quality and fairly priced!

New fabric Order.1

I have made a list on the website of 14 swatches I want to order. I have a range of colours and fabric types. I decided to look at some Wools, seen as it is an A/W collection, the Wool will add a nice texture mix and some warmth!

New fabric Order

First Toile

The first toile is a top from one of my garment designs, which was included in my first line up!

IMG_9627

To create this pattern I used a dart-less bodice block. This way I won’t have any seams on the top, apart from the sleeve seams.

IMG_9696

Once I have traced the block out on some spot and cross paper, I need to add my seam allowance and then cut them out to create my pattern.

IMG_9704

I usually use calico for my toiles, but my local fabric shop was out, so I had to make do with some linen.

I simply pin the patterns to the fabric and then cut them out.

IMG_9705

After they are cut out I just quickly sewed them up to get my first toile.

I forgot to take pictures of the sleeve patterns, but you will see all of that later when I am focusing on some different sleeve styles.

Once all the seams are ironed flat, I put the toile onto my mannequin to make sure the fit is right.

Here I make notes on any changes that need to be made, for example the sleeves didn’t fit into the arm hole, so I will need to reduce the sleeve pattern by 1cm to make sure it fits nicely.

Working on Illustrator is also a technique I like to use when I can’t print out multiple image of the top to edit by hand.

Here I made notes that I could shorten the sleeves, lengthen the top and change the neckline.

Frills

I felt like my collection needed something else, so I went back to my research and decided to look at adding Frills.

IMG_8960

Firstly I went to Pinterest to do some image research on frills, I looked at styles, patterns and how other designers used Frills.

Ruffles.Research

Inspired by what I seen, I sketched out some sample ideas to get me started!

I will create some basic samples which I can work with on the stand, and then some more complex samples to hopefully create some surface design and texture.

IMG_0239

I went through some of my old work, I remembered I had some samples that I created using elastic gathering, which created a frill effect. I then started doing some stand work with this sample to help drive some new bodice designs!

I LOVED how this sample worked on the stand, and I definitely want to bring this into my collection!

By working on the mannequin, even if it is just with fabric, you will be amazed at what ideas you can come up with!

Straight after the stand work, I went and drew up some of my favourites, these I will further later and possibly toile!

IMG_0256

It is amazing how you can start with something simple and end up with something so creative and unusual!

Although it wasn’t a huge productive week, I do feel like I got something done!

Now I have to go sample again and then start more design sketches!

If you would like to see some behind the scenes follow me on Instagram: this_is_tanya_ or add me on Snapchat: velvetvogue

Thank you so much for reading!

Love Tanya

xxx

 

The Design Diary: Embroidery & Line Up

Line up #1

I continued to do sketches based on the paint sample I completed in part 4.

IMG_9673

I like the idea of having a full skirt, with a large section of the skirt having the pattern painted onto it. I want to keep the top half simple and let the skirt be the star of the show.

IMG_9627

Now that I have my colour story sorted, I decided to do my first line up of choices for the first dress. I picked my top 4 and quickly coloured them in with markers to see what they might look like.

IMG_9636

The 3rd garment is definitely my favourite! I like the idea of a two piece, with the top being simple and the skirt having the painted print.

I will need to start looking into fabrics and collecting some samples, then I will need to start sampling the garment in calico.

Embroidery

The rest of the week was spent working on the embroidery samples, it took me a little bit of time to get the hang of the fine detailed one, as I was using a metallic thread.

Just to refresh, the pattern for the embroidery was taken from the pattern on the 2nd class dining plates used on the Titanic.

plate

IMG_9612

I am really happy with the out come, and I want to include it in my final collection. I will need to start designing some garments that could feature this embroidery pattern.

IMG_9615

The colour of this sample won’t be the colour used in the collection. I will need to research some suppliers, to find the right shades.

IMG_9622

The design for this sample was taken from the shape of the Titanic museum in Belfast. I used a silver metallic thread for the lines and used silver beads for the other shapes.

I also like this sample, it is a bit more original as I arranged the design myself, but I’m not sure how I would like this on a garment.

I will have to do some stand work with the sample and see how it looks on the body.

IMG_9656

I drew up a few sketches of garment ideas featuring both of the embroidery samples. I sketched in the idea of using a skin coloured mesh fabric as a base for the embroidery, I will have to sample this to ensure it works.

IMG_9662

In this sketch you can see I came up with the idea of having two fabric panels with the embroidery on them. These panels would then be attached to a skin coloured mesh, to give the illusion that it is just the panels covering the body.

IMG_9667

This sketch also has the same idea, it is a v-neck mesh top with the embroidered shapes. The only problem is the embroidery won’t cover anything and will be very revealing, an under top may be needed.

Fabric

untitled1.png

I began looking at fabrics online and came across a website called Top Fabrics, which is based in the UK.

This website pretty much has everything I was looking for, so it would be a perfect suit as I can order everything together!

untit.jpg

 

I went through their fabrics and ordered a few samples, this way I can see the colours properly and feel the quality and texture!

Lino Prints

IMG_9641

The next sample I want to test is fabric printing using a lino print! I have already transferred the design, now I just have to cut it out and print it.

I’m not sure how this will look, but that is why you have to try everything!

Hopefully this week I will get started on a trial version of dress #1 and then start sampling and design sketching for dress #2!

I’m also hoping to have my fabric samples soon, so I can start planning out the exact fabric I want!

I’m getting pretty excited now seeing everything coming together!

Thank you for reading!

Love Tanya

xxx

 

 

The Design Diary: Surface Design

I printed out the images that I created in Photoshop, I lined them up on to A3 pages so I could have them grouped together.

Using a black marker I created full garments from the Photoshop samples, some turned out better than others.

IMG_9451

Picking out the best from the line up, I began to do my own sketches and developed them a bit further.

IMG_9479

As you can see from these sketches I took the first image from the Photoshop line up and then developed it into 3 other design ideas.

IMG_9511

IMG_9525

After completing some sketch work it was time to start looking at fabrics, print and embroidery.

In order to sample embroidery and print I will need to create some patterns from my research!

Colour

For the first pattern I decided to take it from the shape of the Titanic museum in Belfast.

I outlined the building using the pencil tool and then moved the shapes to a plain page.

shapes

After I picked out all the shapes I began to create patterns with them.

Here are the patterns I created so far.

Pattern3

Pattern.2

Now that I have some patterns created, I need to start exploring some colour stories.

These colour stories can be driven by the research, or by the trend forecasting for the particular season.

For my case I have decided to create this collection to be suited for the coming seasons, Autumn/Winter 17/18. I then began looking at the trend forecasting for these seasons and found some colour guide lines.

Next I went onto Pinterest to find images which have similar colours, these I can use as my colour story. Usually I would take my own photographs, but for this collection I decided just to pick one from Pinterest.

colour.

Once I had picked out a few images, I began to create colour swatches from each image.

I haven’t fully decided on which colour story I want, but I will use these colours in my print and embroidery samples.

I went back to my patterns in Photoshop and began to fill them with colour. These are not final prints but a working progress.

Now that I have my colour and pattern research done, I can now move onto samples!

The first sample I done was painting the shapes I took from the Titanic building. I used ordinary fabric paint on white satin fabric.

pattern.

IMG_9460

IMG_9508

I was happy with the outcome, but the sample would need another layer of paint as it was blotchy. I definitely want to further this idea on a much larger scale!

For this embroidery sample I got the design from the style of plate that was used abroad the Titanic.

plate

IMG_9445

I traced this design and then transferred it onto some pain Cotton fabric.

IMG_9496

Here is a progression photograph of the embroidery sample. I am using a metallic grey embroidery thread and a few different embroidery techniques.

This sample is not fully complete, but will be for part 5.

The next sample planned is another embroidery but this time it is of the same shapes taken from the Titanic museum.

IMG_9440

I haven’t fully decided on technique or colour yet. This sample should also be completed for part 5.

In part 5 I will begin some larger samples based on printing and painting. I will also start working on the large mannequin with fabric, while sketching up my first line up of garments.

Thank you for reading😘

Love Tanya

xxx

The Design Diary

I have always wanted to have a fashion blog, but I also wanted to have a fashion blog that was different and offered more than just outfit ideas and hauls. To achieve this, I have planned a new series called The Design Diary!

This series will show my step by step process to completing an evening wear collection. The design process is long and has many stages from research to sampling and then to the final product!

I have always found the process very interesting and fun, watching my work going from an idea to a finished product.

I thought this series would be interesting for anyone who loves fashion, and who likes to see things come to life.

If you enjoy fashion and love design, I hope you will join me in this journey and hopefully enjoy the process as much as I will!

The first post of the series will be posted midday tomorrow!!

Love Tanya

xxx