In the previous post I completed a toile of a skirt, the next step is to work with the skirt on the stand and in Photoshop.
The reason I do this is to further the design development. The first toile is never the finished garment, simply because you are going to want to make changes, whether they are big or small.
Again I use Photoshop to edit the images, here I outlined that I could change the skirt to a long back and short front style. I could also widen the skirt and make it more full using tulle.
The next thing I done was created a few new designs using samples from the previous post, these were the square drapes made from satin. I made several designs for both the top and the skirt.
I really like the designs I created, the skirt design above with all the layered drapes is definitely my favourite! I quickly moved on to new samples, without furthering any of the designs above.
In the images above you can see the process I followed to create the following samples. This process is also used to make circle skirts, which is actually what pushed me to create these samples!
I created several styles using paper first! Using paper to test a sample is a very handy and penny saving trick, this way you can test if the sample is worth cutting out in fabric!
Above are the paper samples I created, all of the samples turned out perfect, so I began to test them in the calico fabric
The first sample is a simple square, these samples are small and will be suited for working on the small mannequin.
On the mannequin the sample looks interesting and is definitely worth developing further.
The next sample was a square with the corners cut off.
On the mannequin I tested this sample out on the top half of the body instead of the bottom. I really do like this sample, but I also feel as if I have seen it before.
The next sample is a rectangle shape with a smaller circle cut out, this will allow for better frills.
This sample worked out even better than the previous ones. I would like to see this with a bit more structure!
To make the structured sample, I ironed a fabric stiffener to the back of some calico. I cut out the rectangle shape with the small center, the same as the previous sample.
I was actually a little disappointed with the structured sample. I was expecting it to look more interesting.
Next I decided to test out the square sample in a light fabric and a heavy fabric. The sample above is made from a light chiffon.
Using a light fabric creates a really nice drape! I think this design would look really good if it had more layers using different lengths.
This sample was made from a double backed satin, which is pretty thick.
This sample is very interesting! I personally love structure when it comes to design, especially structured skirts, like that designed by Zac Posen! I’m unsure if I want to have this kind of structure for this collection, but I will definitely refer back to it for later collections.
After working with the small samples I decided to do a few sketches based on them. I explored different lengths, layers and bodices.
Choosing the skirt design I liked the most I drew up a quick line up for the first dress. I paired the skirts with my favourite tops I have designed so far. Still unsure about which I like the most I moved on to working on the larger mannequin.
The first sample I made for the larger scale mannequin was the square shape. I was disappointed with how boring it actually looked on the large mannequin. Under the sample is the skirt toile I made in the last post.
The next sample I made was the rectangle shape. This shape definitely looks a lot better than the square! I placed it over the skirt so the long part of the sample was placed at the front and back, while the short ends are on the sides. This design definitely has a lot of potential!
Using the same sample, I simply turned it around so the short ends are at the front and back, and the long ends are at the sides. Again this design has great potential and could be developed further.
I moved on to remove the skirt from underneath the sample. It has lost some volume, but still looks interesting. I think if this sample was to be layered it would look really nice!
I tried to layer the rectangle sample and the square sample together but it didn’t turn out like I expected. The square sample is too flat for it to create a nice drape. I would need to cut out more of the rectangle shapes in different sizes.
I also explored some design ideas for the bodice, I done this using the smaller version of the samples. In the images above you can see both the rectangle samples, stiffened and unstiffened.
I also tried the different weighted samples. To be honest I didn’t like either of them on the bodice. It just reminded me of a clowns collar!
The Customer Board
The final thing I done this week was research for my customer board! A customer board is very important in the design process, and realistically should have been done in the very beginning. I completely forgot because I was too excited to start designing!
The customer board is all about the person you wish to aim your collection at. My collection is evening wear, for occasions such as weddings, cocktail parties and formal events. My customer would be a working woman, who loves her fashion, even at work she still likes to add her own touch to the boring work suit!
She lives in the city and commutes to work instead of driving, she is a very hard worker, but also likes to let her hair down and have fun. Most importantly she loves fashion and is very open to new trends and styles!
Now that I have found some designs that I really like, I will start to design ideas on paper, then I will start to toile them.
I will be taking a week off from The Design Diary as I have a wedding and unfortunately I wont have time to do a lot of work.
I hope you are enjoying The Design Diary so far, and trust me its only going to get better, especially when we get all the fabric!!
Thank you for reading!